It sounds so glamorous, actually it is pretty glamorous. Or at least the beaches I have been to have been beautiful. Both Kovalum and then Varkala. I stayed in a nice hotel in Kovalum, the Sea Face. I'm now in what appears to be the premier hotel in Varkala, the Hindustaan. They are both nice, but neither one is outrageously luxurious.
I was so excited to get to the beach so I could practice on my own. Sharat had said that it is not a good idea to practice outside, he said the air takes all of your prana. It has always been one of my favorite things to do though, so I decided to give it a shot anyway. I always thought I received extra prana from being near the ocean.
I have to say, I now see what Sharat means. I practiced outside the first morning in Kovalum. The next morning I practiced in my room. I had a very distracted practice outside, and a great practice inside. I found it interesting that so many Indians were fascinated by my practicing. The whole time I've been here, I've hardly seen any Indians doing yoga.
The beach and the setting in Varkala are spectacular. There are big red cliffs overlooking the beach and the ocean. The cliffs have kept the development at bay.
I practiced in my room this morning and had maybe my best practice ever. I think it is great to have some time on my own , to work on what I've learned and what I'm taking away from Mysore.
I realized when I practiced on the beach in Kovalum that it was the first time I have done that since Dashiel died last June. It was our thing. In fact I still feel like I have to whisper the word beach, or he will be dogging me. He would here the word and he would instantly appear in front of me, tilting his big ears back and forth, willing me to take him with me.
I told Shelley that I hadn't practiced on the beach since Dash died, and she said, "I'm sure he would want you to." I guess she's right, as long as he knew he was with me. And like I've already written, it seems like he is with me, and he always will be.
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Monday, February 9, 2009
More Travels
I had a great time in Fort Cochin, from there I went by taxi to Kollum. I went to Kollum to catch the ferry through the backwaters to Amma's ashram. I realize in my traveling that I'm very comfortable in transit. Once I'm in the car,or on the bus, or train, or boat for that matter, I know what to expect. It's when I get somewhere, and have to figure out what is next that gets me a little unnerved.
But I'm getting better at letting that go, or trusting that even if I don't know what to expect, I'll figure it out.
I had asked at the hotel about the ferry trip. The man at the desk told me it would take about an hour or hour and a half to get to Kollum and the ferry left at 10:30. He thought, just to be safe, I should leave the hotel at 8:30. A few minutes later, he knocked at my door and said he would like it better if I left at 8am. A man after my own heart. How did he know?
When I got to Kollum, I realized I'm getting better at letting go of not knowing what is next, or knowing that I will be able to figure it out. Without too much trouble, I found a boat, and was confident they understood that I was going to the ashram.
So much of this trip has been about me going with the flow. I had no definite plan for staying at the ashram. As I was flowing down the beautiful backwaters, I kept thinking, "one night or two?, will I really like it, or do I want to head to the beach?" one night or two?" I finally decided I would just wait and see.
This new found ability to go with the flow really worked in my favor.
I don't really want to write too much about how I felt about the ashram. Let me just say it wasn't for me. I realize the importance of having a guru and I'm open to the idea, but I've never been the best bhakti yogi.
But that was really only part of it. Anyone who wants to know more, I'll tell you in person. I did get a hug from Amma, and she does alot of great things for the community. But, once again, that place was not for me.
I'm all for the idea of everyone getting along, and live and let live. But I have one suggestion. How about screens on the windows of the dorms. Then the mosquitos can live outside, and I can sleep inside.
I will say they did have internet service.
I could have waited for the boat to pick me up Sunday afternoon. I had paid for the full trip. I didn't wait, I checked out and caught a taxi to the nearest bus stop.
I spent the last 2 nights in beautiful Kovalum and head to Varkala tomorrow.
But I'm getting better at letting that go, or trusting that even if I don't know what to expect, I'll figure it out.
I had asked at the hotel about the ferry trip. The man at the desk told me it would take about an hour or hour and a half to get to Kollum and the ferry left at 10:30. He thought, just to be safe, I should leave the hotel at 8:30. A few minutes later, he knocked at my door and said he would like it better if I left at 8am. A man after my own heart. How did he know?
When I got to Kollum, I realized I'm getting better at letting go of not knowing what is next, or knowing that I will be able to figure it out. Without too much trouble, I found a boat, and was confident they understood that I was going to the ashram.
So much of this trip has been about me going with the flow. I had no definite plan for staying at the ashram. As I was flowing down the beautiful backwaters, I kept thinking, "one night or two?, will I really like it, or do I want to head to the beach?" one night or two?" I finally decided I would just wait and see.
This new found ability to go with the flow really worked in my favor.
I don't really want to write too much about how I felt about the ashram. Let me just say it wasn't for me. I realize the importance of having a guru and I'm open to the idea, but I've never been the best bhakti yogi.
But that was really only part of it. Anyone who wants to know more, I'll tell you in person. I did get a hug from Amma, and she does alot of great things for the community. But, once again, that place was not for me.
I'm all for the idea of everyone getting along, and live and let live. But I have one suggestion. How about screens on the windows of the dorms. Then the mosquitos can live outside, and I can sleep inside.
I will say they did have internet service.
I could have waited for the boat to pick me up Sunday afternoon. I had paid for the full trip. I didn't wait, I checked out and caught a taxi to the nearest bus stop.
I spent the last 2 nights in beautiful Kovalum and head to Varkala tomorrow.
Friday, February 6, 2009
bookends
I arrived in Bangalore in the dark and got to Mysore. My first full day there, my host Joseph took me to lunch at a great restaurant. My last full day there he took me to lunch at another great restaurant, Sandia's. Then I left Mysore in the dark and got to Bangalore.
I flew out of Bangalore yesterday, headed to Kochi in Kerala. Once again I had no idea what to expect or where I was going. Last time I really felt this way was when I was 20 years old, and I was in England with my parents. They dropped me off at the ferry to France. I had a Frommer's guide and a Eurail pass. I didn't think too much of it at the time. I guess alot of things are easier when you are younger.
So far though everything has been great, and I am excited about my continuiing travels.
I met a French/Canadian man at the airport who asked me if I wanted to share a taxi to Fort Cochi. That worked out great, we ended up looking at a couple of homestays togethere. I found a nice, clean, not too expensive room. I spent last night and will spend tonight in Fort Kochi, a beautiful port city. I head to the ferry through the backwaters tomorrow and will end up at Amma's ashram.
This town, was and still is a big exporter of spices. It was first Portuguese, then Dutch and of course British, and you see all of those influences. Lots of Catholic churches around.
Tonight, I will see a performance of classic Keralan dance, I can't remember what it is called.
I could write more, but this is a noisy internet cafe, and the computer is not great. It might be a couple of days before I will write again. Think they have wireless at the ashram?
I flew out of Bangalore yesterday, headed to Kochi in Kerala. Once again I had no idea what to expect or where I was going. Last time I really felt this way was when I was 20 years old, and I was in England with my parents. They dropped me off at the ferry to France. I had a Frommer's guide and a Eurail pass. I didn't think too much of it at the time. I guess alot of things are easier when you are younger.
So far though everything has been great, and I am excited about my continuiing travels.
I met a French/Canadian man at the airport who asked me if I wanted to share a taxi to Fort Cochi. That worked out great, we ended up looking at a couple of homestays togethere. I found a nice, clean, not too expensive room. I spent last night and will spend tonight in Fort Kochi, a beautiful port city. I head to the ferry through the backwaters tomorrow and will end up at Amma's ashram.
This town, was and still is a big exporter of spices. It was first Portuguese, then Dutch and of course British, and you see all of those influences. Lots of Catholic churches around.
Tonight, I will see a performance of classic Keralan dance, I can't remember what it is called.
I could write more, but this is a noisy internet cafe, and the computer is not great. It might be a couple of days before I will write again. Think they have wireless at the ashram?
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Some things to remember
Santosha for breakfast, my favorite.
Tina's for lunch and/or dinner.
Dasprakash downtown for lunch.
RRR hotel in Mysore for lunch.
Jalwa punjab for dinner.
Badsha silks for an amazing tailor.
Royal Orchid Hotel in Brindavan gardens.
I forgot to write about Tuesday when I explored around Mysore. One of he biggest attractions is Srirangapatnam, a fort built by Hyder Ali and his son Tipu Sultan ( of Deveraj market fame). They were Muslims that ruled much of southern India in the 18t century. They were overthrown by the British in 1799, and much of it is in ruins. But there were some incredible examples of Muslim architecture.
Then went to Brindavan gardens, which I had to see for obvious reasons. It sits below a dam, and is full of fountains. It is supposed to be amazing at night, because they light the fountains with different colors and put on a show. I couldn't work it out to go at night. I loved it during the day. Particularly the fancy hotel, the Royal Orchid, where I had lunch. I knew it was going to be a treat when I found paper towels in the bathroom! And it got better from there.
Tina's for lunch and/or dinner.
Dasprakash downtown for lunch.
RRR hotel in Mysore for lunch.
Jalwa punjab for dinner.
Badsha silks for an amazing tailor.
Royal Orchid Hotel in Brindavan gardens.
I forgot to write about Tuesday when I explored around Mysore. One of he biggest attractions is Srirangapatnam, a fort built by Hyder Ali and his son Tipu Sultan ( of Deveraj market fame). They were Muslims that ruled much of southern India in the 18t century. They were overthrown by the British in 1799, and much of it is in ruins. But there were some incredible examples of Muslim architecture.
Then went to Brindavan gardens, which I had to see for obvious reasons. It sits below a dam, and is full of fountains. It is supposed to be amazing at night, because they light the fountains with different colors and put on a show. I couldn't work it out to go at night. I loved it during the day. Particularly the fancy hotel, the Royal Orchid, where I had lunch. I knew it was going to be a treat when I found paper towels in the bathroom! And it got better from there.
catching up
I've fallen behind in my updates. Let me see if I can re-create the last few days.
Sunday, I practiced @4:30 am. I like the led classes, but I won't be missing the un-yogi like push to get into the studio to get a spot. I would say that is my least favorite part of the whole trip.
Then I spent the rest of the day hanging around with Anna, my kiwi friend who was leaving that afternoon. She had not been well for a couple of days, but really rallied, we had a great breakfast at Santosha, and then I very open and emotional lunch. I really connected with that woman and look forward to seeing her again even though we live literally, on opposite sides of the world.
Monday Mysore practice, not much else until the evening. I went to a great meditation class. It was broken into 4 15 minute parts, first part breathing kumbakha and rechakha, second part, eyes open gazing at a candle flame, third part standing with eyes closed, maybe moving if it feels like something is coming up, fourth part, sitting, eyes closed, practicing being a witness. The first 3 parts had music with them so you knew when to move on to the next section. The last 15 minutes in silence. Amazing, I was so calm after that it was all I could do to eat dinner and go to bed. I went back the next night, and had a great meditation at the end, true moments of being the witness. I wasn't quite so tired afterward.
The meditation really affected my asana practice. I was so focused both mornings.
Wednesday morning practice, my last one of the trip. In a way, I'm ready to be done, I had a great practice though. Spent the morning after class getting ready to leave. Some shopping for my adventure within the adventure.
I have become so comfortable here, I feel like I'm leaving home again. I don't know what to expect. I'm heading to some beautiful beaches though, so I'm pretty excited.
Sunday, I practiced @4:30 am. I like the led classes, but I won't be missing the un-yogi like push to get into the studio to get a spot. I would say that is my least favorite part of the whole trip.
Then I spent the rest of the day hanging around with Anna, my kiwi friend who was leaving that afternoon. She had not been well for a couple of days, but really rallied, we had a great breakfast at Santosha, and then I very open and emotional lunch. I really connected with that woman and look forward to seeing her again even though we live literally, on opposite sides of the world.
Monday Mysore practice, not much else until the evening. I went to a great meditation class. It was broken into 4 15 minute parts, first part breathing kumbakha and rechakha, second part, eyes open gazing at a candle flame, third part standing with eyes closed, maybe moving if it feels like something is coming up, fourth part, sitting, eyes closed, practicing being a witness. The first 3 parts had music with them so you knew when to move on to the next section. The last 15 minutes in silence. Amazing, I was so calm after that it was all I could do to eat dinner and go to bed. I went back the next night, and had a great meditation at the end, true moments of being the witness. I wasn't quite so tired afterward.
The meditation really affected my asana practice. I was so focused both mornings.
Wednesday morning practice, my last one of the trip. In a way, I'm ready to be done, I had a great practice though. Spent the morning after class getting ready to leave. Some shopping for my adventure within the adventure.
I have become so comfortable here, I feel like I'm leaving home again. I don't know what to expect. I'm heading to some beautiful beaches though, so I'm pretty excited.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Winding Down
Wow, I can't believe my time in Mysore is almost up. When I got here, a month seemed like so long, and now I just don't see where all the time went. Truly, time flies when you're having fun. I've been having an amazing time.
Before I left, I would tell people that I was going to India for 6 weeks, and it sounded like such a long time. Based on the people I've met, and the stories I've heard, 6 weeks in India is nothing. It is interesting the amount of people who are here for a long time, are here because they left something behind and are not sure what the next step will be. Quit jobs, relationships, and don't have much waiting for them at home. Once again, I don't want this to sound judgemental, but I'm so happy with what I have waiting for me at home. I came here to explore Ashtanga yoga from the source and I've really been able to do that. I've learned so much about this practice that I am loving. I've seen some incredible practitioners. I've learned that it's ok to go slow.
I haven't updated this in a while, I guess there has just been a whirlwind of activity.
Saturday I went back to Deveraj market with Shelley and Lara. They hadn't been before. We had a great time in the market, got a lesson in making incense, bought some fragrant oils, marveled at the sights. Then I took them outside the market to the fish, chicken and mutton stalls. It was even worse than the last time I was there. Shelley could stand if for about 2 minutes.
We had other shopping to do, and spent a busy day running around Mysore. We met up with Rachel at the tailor where I had my suit made. Did I mention I had a suit made? Unbelievably beautiful. I'll have to post a pic. We all went to lunch at the RRR hotel. It was packed on a Saturday afternoon, we were the only westerners in the place. It was highly recommended by some friends of Lara's. They serve Thali, which is an assortment of vegetarian dishes and sauces served with rice. It was really delicious, I just had a small problem with the plates. Not plates actually, big banana leaves that they just put down on the table and then start scooping the food onto them. These were, I'm sure, the same banana leaves that are piled up all over the market. How do they wash those things?
Government store after lunch for sandalwood beads, pots etc. 4 of us in one autorickshaw.
Downtown Mysore on a Saturday afternoon is mobbed, actually I think,every afternoon is mobbed. We were in rickshaw gridlock for what seemed like ever. It is not even summer here yet, and it is really getting hot. And, in case I haven't mentioned it before, NOISY.
Before I left, I would tell people that I was going to India for 6 weeks, and it sounded like such a long time. Based on the people I've met, and the stories I've heard, 6 weeks in India is nothing. It is interesting the amount of people who are here for a long time, are here because they left something behind and are not sure what the next step will be. Quit jobs, relationships, and don't have much waiting for them at home. Once again, I don't want this to sound judgemental, but I'm so happy with what I have waiting for me at home. I came here to explore Ashtanga yoga from the source and I've really been able to do that. I've learned so much about this practice that I am loving. I've seen some incredible practitioners. I've learned that it's ok to go slow.
I haven't updated this in a while, I guess there has just been a whirlwind of activity.
Saturday I went back to Deveraj market with Shelley and Lara. They hadn't been before. We had a great time in the market, got a lesson in making incense, bought some fragrant oils, marveled at the sights. Then I took them outside the market to the fish, chicken and mutton stalls. It was even worse than the last time I was there. Shelley could stand if for about 2 minutes.
We had other shopping to do, and spent a busy day running around Mysore. We met up with Rachel at the tailor where I had my suit made. Did I mention I had a suit made? Unbelievably beautiful. I'll have to post a pic. We all went to lunch at the RRR hotel. It was packed on a Saturday afternoon, we were the only westerners in the place. It was highly recommended by some friends of Lara's. They serve Thali, which is an assortment of vegetarian dishes and sauces served with rice. It was really delicious, I just had a small problem with the plates. Not plates actually, big banana leaves that they just put down on the table and then start scooping the food onto them. These were, I'm sure, the same banana leaves that are piled up all over the market. How do they wash those things?
Government store after lunch for sandalwood beads, pots etc. 4 of us in one autorickshaw.
Downtown Mysore on a Saturday afternoon is mobbed, actually I think,every afternoon is mobbed. We were in rickshaw gridlock for what seemed like ever. It is not even summer here yet, and it is really getting hot. And, in case I haven't mentioned it before, NOISY.
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